Fujiiso (Adult Only)

This establishment exudes both luxury and historic charm. They were some strict guidelines - for instance we could only check in at 3pm despite arriving a little early. Guests are restricted to adults only, hence wouldn’t suit young families. We were received at reception with a tea ceremony and were sat at a long bench table with floor to ceiling windows. This was my favourite part of the stay as the views overlooked Yamada Onsen’s mountainous region. There was also complimentary tea and coffee at reception and we came back here for same after breakfast to bask in the beautiful spectacle. It almost seemed like the Ryokan was perched atop a higher altitude. Our group of 5 were ushered into one of the bigger rooms which has 2 modern beds and 3 comfy futons. Like the reception, it had flawless views of the snowy mountains which greeted you in the morning from your deep slumber. Kaiseki had a variety to local fare to try from. Specifically, there was the “pon pon” hotpot where the wait staff would run a fryer on your table with indigenous delicacies from the Takayama region. Whilst the hotpot (nabe) was unique to Fujiiso, it felt somewhat familiar to other cuisines. Personally I enjoyed the snow crab and sashimi more. The onsen had both an indoor and outdoor bath areas and were well maintained. The outdoor one did overlook the snowy mountains and was situated on a balcony setting. Personally I expected an outdoor setting that was built within its natural surroundings, similar to older style Ryokans. We paid a somewhat exorbitant price for this establishment (450 AUD per head per night) which raised our expectation bar. Overall, it came to extra subtleties that made it a luxurious experience. For instance, the room tea sets were exquisite in design and came with local brews such as soba tea. These were refreshed during turn down service. The fridge was well stocked with complementary beer and cold brew tea which we enjoyed by the long bench at reception. Staff also go out of their way to ensure guests have a comforting experience. The neighbouring public onsens were also complimentary and staff would provide free passes to guests if they wished to go (although we didn’t). Overall, a really top location and also close to ski villages for those ski/snowboard heads.

We took both of our mothers on a trip through Nagano (including the incomparable Matsumoto Castle), and decided to take a detour in order to stay at this historic ryokan with a history of over 240 years. Prior to doing so, I did my homework to make sure that old doesn't mean run down, worn out and amenity/technology deficient. Thankfully, it wasn't the case here. I cannot speak for the other rooms, but we booked the two "Tokubetsu Shitsu" "special" rooms that were newly built in October, 2022 - Fuji Balcony Suite and Yamazakura. They were both fresh, stylish and spacious, with Fuji taking top honors with an enormous 158m² of living space along with an incredible entrance walkway. Yamazakura was not slouch, either, as it offered 110m² of stretch-out comfort and a hinoki (cedar) wooden Onsen tub as opposed to the granite bath in Fuji. Both rooms featured a Western-style living room, a Japanese-style tatami living room and a bedroom with Western beds (guests can choose to sleep on futons, in which case they will be rolled out in the tatami room.) The cuisine was very nice. Fujiiso focused on local ingredients and produce, including mountain vegetables, Shinshu beef (Shinshu was the name of the prefecture before it was renamed to Nagano) and seasonal fruits. One of the joys of visiting remote regions of Japan is to try out local delicacies, and in that aspect Fujiiso did not disappoint. For example, white asparagus was in season, so they offered up a grated white asparagus soup with Uni (sea urchin) and Shiso flowers on top. A very refreshing and umami-infused soup. And some of the servings had a "Ohina-sama" theme (from the decorations of the dishes to preparations of the food), since girl's day is in the month of March and there are many traditions around this time of year. Those are among the things that make a top-notch ryokan worthy of repeat visits, especially during different seasons. Service was also stellar. We were assigned a butler for both rooms, although for the meals just one of them served us since we all dined together. Both Chie and Mariko were enthusiastic, charming and attentive - Chie speaks good English so perhaps you might want to ask for her if your Japanese is not up to snuff. They both took their time in deliberately explaining every feature of our rooms, as well as each course that they served for dinner and breakfast. It was truly a lovely experience to have been able to spend time with such lovely ladies. While Fujiiso is out of the way (a rental car is probably useful if you're going to spend any amount of time exploring the entire Nagano prefecture), and falls just short of being a destination ryokan, there is a benefit to visiting the Yamada Onsen area - just not at the time that we did - Matsukawa Ravine/Gorge is among the most picturesque in all of Japan, but that's only when there are leaves on the trees, particularly during the Fall foliage season.

Unbelievably helpful and attentive staff. Who really go out of their way to look after their guests. Nothing is too much to ask for and it’s always delivered with elegance and a smile. Very clean and well equipped bed rooms which all look across a small gorge onto a national park, as the ryokan is built going down the side of it. The lobby is the highest floor. Comfortable beds with good pillows and toppers, clean bathrooms and oceans of delicious silence. Lovely view of snow covered tree trunks from my balcony. This elegant ryokan is sighed in the middle of the small Yakanama village so you can walk to the few local shops and the village onsen. The hotel has its own onsen as well with inside and outside areas, the latter looking over the gorge. It’s open 5.30-10 am and 3-1am. Nothing beats a hot soak before bed! My stay included breakfast and dinner which were typically 5 and 8 courses respectively of delicious food. Do ask for and try the village apple juice, the Shinsi valley is famous for its apples. As I had a car the location was perfect to see some local sites eg Hokusai-man museum dedicated to the famous painter Katsushika Hokusai and Gansho-in temple with a famous 1848 mythical bird painting he did aged almost 90, both of which are in the small town of Obuse (c25 mins away). You can also check out all the famed chestnut produce for which Obuse is renowned in various shops right by the museum. Slightly further away is the stunning Zenkoji temple in the larger town of Nagano (c45 mins away). The history of Zenkoji temple started in 642, when Yoshimitsu Honda enshrined a Buddhist image. It’s a divinely sacred site and it’s well worth exploring. Parking was cheap and easy at both sites albeit it was a question in the pay and display in Nagano of pressing the 6hrs and then any other button I could find until a ticket finally emerged. Also nearby is the famous snow monkey park where you can see them bathing in an onsen. It’s an easy drive (c45 mins away but different direction to Nagano). Parking is free and and then there is a gentle 40 min walk through the trees to the Jigokundani Yean Koen park. Wear walking boots if it’s snowy but its an easy and relaxing walk. The hotel staff will also suggest other ideas depending on what really interests you. As I said they couldn’t be more helpful from providing shoes trees to help you get back into your footwear to not only cleaning any snow from your windscreen but checking the coast is clear for you in both directions as you pull out. Divine. Very zen. Chie who served all my meals and cleaned my room was an utter delight and spoke almost perfect English. Can’t wait to come back!!

A very small mountain village in a steep narrow valley. Entrance at the top of the inn, and rooms built down along a cliff. Panoramic view of the mountain across the valley. Very nice onsen bath and kaiseki dinner and full Japanese breakfast. Small, high quality Japanese ryokan (inn). Maybe 20 rooms. Impeccable service. Greeted outside upon arrival and tea & sweets served as you view the mountain across the valley while checking in. A very quiet adult getaway. We visited the public bath a minute walk on the second day morning. Apparently an over 100 year old building with much charm and tradition. The Takayama winery near by offers spectacular views. Domaine Sogga in Obuse offers rare wines that you can only buy at the winery. Arguably one of the best wines made in Japan, with a cult following. Many European wine enthusiasts at the winery. For generations the family produced sake, and now also making wines from European grape varietals farmed in Obuse. Rare varietals usually for blending such as petit manseng made into single varietal wine. The winery is the former 'kura' that produced sake.