The Shaanxi History Museum: A Difficult Experience

The Shaanxi History Museum is the hardest museum to book that I've ever encountered. Seven or eight years ago, I was on a business trip and had half a day free, so I walked over to the museum. I was immediately taken aback by the crowds. I had no idea I needed to book tickets in advance, so I had to leave dejectedly. Two years ago, some friends from afar came to Xi'an and invited me to meet up and tour the city. I thought if I could get tickets to the Shaanxi History Museum, I would go. But I couldn't get tickets, so I didn't go. This time, I was determined to go. I looked up ticket-booking tips online, and they actually worked! I got tickets. The visiting experience is hard to describe. The difficulty in getting tickets is partly due to Xi'an's fame as the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, and partly due to the small size of the museum, which can't accommodate many visitors. The official website says 10,000 tickets are released daily, and although entry is timed, it still feels crowded and noisy. I heard there's a new building—why isn't it being used to divert some of the crowds? I loved these exhibits: Figure 2, the exquisite "secret color" porcelain (the finest Yue kiln celadon) unearthed from the Famen Temple crypt; Figure 3, the uniquely designed Yaozhou kiln celadon lifting-beam inverted pouring pot; Figure 4, the gold incense burner from Hejia Village, which is completely hollowed out, yet the incense inside doesn't spill out no matter how much it's shaken or turned—how did they do that?; Figure 5, the exquisitely crafted gold and silver mirror with four phoenixes and ribbon patterns; and Figure 6, the three-color camel figurine with musicians. If your museum experience isn't great, don't be discouraged. Nearby, you can visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Qujiang Pool, and enjoy delicious Yangrou Paomo (mutton stew with bread) and Rou Jia Mo (meat sandwich).