Strolling through Huangqiao Ancient Town in Taixing, Jiangsu, is like opening a weighty historical scroll. Founded during the reign of Emperor Shenzong of the Northern Song Dynasty, this ancient town is not only the gateway from central and northern Jiangsu to southern Jiangsu, but also renowned for its red revolutionary history, Ming and Qing architectural complexes, and profound cultural heritage. Between the bluestone streets, mottled brick walls, and ancient bridges over flowing water, there are both the heroic echoes of war and the continuation of a scholarly tradition. This article will take you through time and space to explore the unique charm of Huangqiao Ancient Town.
I. Red Memories: The Huangqiao Campaign and Heroic Epic
Huangqiao Ancient Town's rise to fame is inextricably linked to a battle recorded in history—the Huangqiao decisive battle of 1940. The New Fourth Army, with 7,000 troops, fought against 30,000 die-hard Kuomintang troops, ultimately winning with fewer soldiers. This battle became a classic example in the War of Resistance Against Japan.
1. New Fourth Army Huangqiao Campaign Memorial Hall
Located at No. 10 Mi Lane, the memorial hall is the core landmark of the ancient town's red culture. The five-story exhibition hall recreates the entire battle with physical objects, wax figures, and sand tables. The displayed military uniforms, weapons, and the manuscript of "Huangqiao Sesame Cake Song" silently tell the story of the close relationship between the army and the people. The scene of the people risking their lives to send sesame cakes to support the front line is vividly reproduced through realistic sculptures, which is very touching.
2. Revolutionary Sites
Many red sites are scattered throughout the ancient town: the former site of Tao Yong's Command Post, the tomb of Comrade Su Yu, and the Huangqiao Campaign Revolutionary Martyrs Memorial Tower. Among them, the "I-Shaped Building" was once the office of Qing Dynasty officials and was later used as the residence of the Provisional Administrative Committee. Bullet marks can still be seen on the mottled brick walls, where history is frozen.
II. Architectural Tour: Ming and Qing Streets and Lanes and the Charm of Jiangnan
Huangqiao Ancient Town has more than 2,000 well-preserved Ming and Qing buildings, and traces of the Song Dynasty can still be found. It is known as a "living ancient town."
1. Old Streets and Archway Model
The ancient town is divided into three protected areas, east, south, and west, with Shiqiao Road as the axis. The layout of the streets and lanes is like a chessboard, with 72 ancient lanes crisscrossing each other. The unique "archway model" is a major feature of Huangqiao. Twenty-eight arched archways connect streets and lanes such as Mi Lane, Zhu Lane, and Luo Family Lane. Walking through them is like stepping into a time tunnel. The blue brick and black tile houses, carved wooden windows, and stone inscriptions all demonstrate the superb skills of Ming and Qing craftsmen.
2. Ancestral Halls and Temples
- He Clan Ancestral Hall: Built in the Ming Dynasty, the architectural details such as the lotus leaf pier supporting the purlin and the gauze hat wing-decorated Liang Dian are extremely rare in northern Jiangsu, witnessing the glory of the He family's "four Jinshi and ten Juren."
- Fuhui Zen Temple: An ancient temple of the Song Dynasty, the five-entry courtyard is majestic, and the Daxiong Hall is filled with incense. The Guanyin Hall and Arhat Hall are well-preserved and are known as the "First Ancient Temple in Jiangbei."
- Song Gu Filial Piety Pavilion: Built to commemorate the filial son Gu Xin, his story of "serving his mother for fifty years" was praised by Emperor Chengzu Zhu Di of the Ming Dynasty in a poem, and the inscriptions in the pavilion are still clearly discernible.
3. Famous Bridges and Mansions
The "Zhi Fu" and "Wen Ming" bridges pin the ancient town's double pursuit of material and spiritual wealth on the bridge names; Zhu Luxian's "General's Mansion" retains 28 brick and wood buildings of the Republic of China lieutenant general's residence. The gate tower is intricately carved, highlighting the style of a military family.
III. Cultural Gathering: From Imperial Examination Families to Scientific Giants
Huangqiao has valued culture and education since ancient times. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the He family alone produced four Jinshi and ten Juren. In modern times, even more famous people have emerged:
- Ding Wenjiang: The father of modern Chinese geology. His former residence, "Dingjia Garden," integrates Chinese and Western architectural styles. The courtyard is secluded and displays his investigation notes and geological specimens.
- Ding Xilin: Playwright and physicist. His former residence displays his manuscripts and scientific instruments, showing his legendary life of integrating arts and sciences.
- Zhu Luxian: A veteran of the Xinhai Revolution. His residence, "General's Mansion," is now a patriotic education base. The exhibits include military uniforms and letters from the Northern Expedition period.
IV. Huangqiao on the Tip of the Tongue: Sesame Cake Legend and Jiangnan Flavor
"You must eat Huangqiao sesame cakes when you come to Huangqiao." This folk saying carries a red memory. Huangqiao sesame cakes are known for being crispy, multi-layered, and rich in fillings. The most popular flavors are lard filling and crab roe. In those days, people rushed to make sesame cakes day and night to support the front line, and the "Huangqiao Sesame Cake Song" sublimated it into a symbol of the deep friendship between the army and the people.
The ancient town's cuisine is far more than that:
- Whole Fish Feast: Made with fresh Taihu fish, one fish is cooked in multiple ways, the fish balls are tender, and the fish soup is mellow.
- Huangqiao Meat Residue: The fried pork lard residue is crispy and melts in your mouth, suitable for both wine and rice.
V. Surrounding Exploration: A Modern Symphony of Nature and Countryside
1. Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park
Driving east, you can see a ginkgo forest covering an area of 3,000 mu. Among the 13,800 ancient trees, there are 3,000-year-old ginkgo trees. In autumn, golden leaves cover the sky, and the negative ion content is extremely high, making it a natural oxygen bar.
2. Qixiang Village
Located in the southeast of Huangqiao, it is known as "China's Most Beautiful Village" and is the ancestral home of Ding Wenjiang. Xiaonan Lake Scenic Area integrates fishing, bamboo rafts, and a horse racing track, receiving 250,000 tourists annually, showcasing the vitality of the new countryside.
VI. Travel Tips: Practical Information and In-depth Experience
- Tickets and Time: The ticket price is CNY 70 (the latest price is subject to the scenic spot announcement), and the opening hours are 08:00–18:00.
- Transportation Guide:
- Self-driving: From Shanghai, take the Shanghai-Nanjing Expressway and transfer to the Nanjing-Jingjiang-Yancheng Expressway. You can reach Huangqiao from the Huangqiao exit.
- Public transportation: Take a direct bus from Taixing Bus Station, the journey takes about 40 minutes.
- Accommodation Recommendation: The inns in the ancient town are simple and elegant, such as the B&B converted from the Yushi Mansion; Taixing International Hotel is available in the city.
- Precautions: The stone roads in the old street are slippery, so be careful to avoid falling; smoking is prohibited in some ancient buildings.
Conclusion: An Ancient Town, Half of Modern and Contemporary Chinese History
The charm of Huangqiao Ancient Town lies in the blending of history and the present. Red memories flow between the blue bricks and gray tiles, the fragrance of books from imperial examination families has not dissipated, and the footprints of scientific giants still remain. Whether it is the literati complex of listening to the rain by the railing or the passionate excitement of touching bullet marks, this place can satisfy all your imaginations of ancient towns in Jiangnan. As the locals say: "A Huangqiao old street is half of modern and contemporary Chinese history." This ancient town is waiting for every traveler to write their own chapter with an inclusive attitude. Huangqiao Ancient Town
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