Millennial Banyan Trees and a Tranquil Ancient Town

Around Chengdu, there are many ancient towns such as Huanglongxi, Luodai, and Jiezi Ancient Town, which are quite popular. However, for those who prefer peace and quiet, these commercialized towns can feel noisy and overwhelming. Instead, they might favor more serene and leisurely places like Xilai Ancient Town. Xilai Ancient Town is relatively unknown to many. This old town in western Sichuan, established during the Southern Song Dynasty, lacks the hustle and bustle of trendy social media spots and the uniformity of commercial shops. Instead, it boasts twelve century-old banyan trees that quietly guard its streets and alleys. The history of Xilai Ancient Town dates back to the second year of Emperor Gong of Western Wei (555 AD), when Linxi County was established here. It has witnessed nine dynasties, including Western Wei, Northern Zhou, Sui, Tang, and the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, until it was downgraded to Linxi Town during the fifth year of Emperor Xining of the Northern Song Dynasty (1072 AD). The name "Xilai" has two origins. One theory suggests that the layout of the town's residences resembles the character "西" (Xi, meaning "west"), while another attributes the name to a statue of Guan Yu that arrived from the west during the Kangxi era, with the county magistrate borrowing the Buddhist phrase "Buddhism comes from the west" to rename the town. The town preserves relics such as Warring States-era boat coffins, Han Dynasty iron-smelting sites, and remnants of the Tang and Song-era Tea Horse Road, attesting to its historical role as a commercial hub in western Sichuan. The core scenic area of Xilai Ancient Town is a 1,200-meter-long old street, composed of interconnected alleys like Boji Street, Yan Alley, and Shui Alley. The traditional Sichuan-style residences from the Ming and Qing Dynasties feature gray tiles, white walls, and upturned eaves. Intricately carved wooden doors and windows adorn some old houses, which are still inhabited by original residents who maintain traditional lifestyles such as burning firewood and drying mugwort. The iconic building of the town is the Wenfeng Tower (also known as Xizi Palace), built in the thirteenth year of Emperor Daoguang of the Qing Dynasty (1833). The hexagonal tower features upturned eaves and carvings of opera characters and poetic inscriptions in nine-curved seal script. The Linxi River flows through the town with clear waters, flanked by twelve millennial banyan trees, each over 1,000 years old. These banyans come in various forms, such as the "Couple Tree" (two trunks embracing), the "Dinosaur Tree" (roots intertwined like dragons), and the "Guanyin Tree" (branches resembling a lotus seat). Red cloth strips hanging from the trees carry villagers' wishes for peace and safety. In summer, the banyan shade offers cool relief, inviting visitors to stroll along the river or take a boat ride. The riverside Laian Wharf, once a transportation hub, is now a popular spot for photography and leisure. Local artisans continue age-old crafts, such as bamboo weaving, creating intricate baskets and hats. Traditional brewing methods produce fragrant liquor from sorghum, offering a taste of serenity. The town's cuisine reflects its local flavors. "Pujiang Sparrow Tongue" tea, shaped like bird tongues, is aromatic and refreshing. Sichuan-style puffed rice candy is crispy and melts in the mouth, while egg sweet potato crisps, made from red sweet potatoes, are golden and sweet. Riverside farmhouses serve dishes like spicy yellow catfish, tofu with dipping sauce, and creamy noodle soup, embodying the homely taste of western Sichuan. The Chengdu Campaign Memorial Hall, located in Tonggu Village, chronicles the battle to liberate Chengdu and is designated as a provincial national defense education base. Old tea houses and barber shops preserve the town's lively atmosphere. Tea houses along the old street feature bamboo chairs and wooden tables by the river, where a cup of Sparrow Tongue tea and a plate of sunflower seeds accompany the sight of egrets gliding over the water, slowing down time. On odd-numbered days of the Gregorian calendar, the town hosts "market days," where villagers sell local specialties like tangerines and kiwis, recreating the bustling scenes of ancient markets. The charm of Xilai Ancient Town lies in its unspoiled authenticity. In this modern era, Xilai remains remarkably composed. The clocks in old tea houses always tick slowly, sparks from the blacksmith's forge have flown for over a century, and the rings of the ancient banyan trees hold generations of stories. A true ancient town doesn't need reconstructed buildings or trendy filters. As long as the dewdrops on the stone-paved streets still dampen cloth shoes, the aroma of bean paste still wafts by the Linxi River, and the shade under the banyan trees remains cool and pleasant, time will never grow old here. Address: Shouwuo Road, Pujiang County