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Tongren: Conquer the Peculiar Peaks of Fanjingshan and Savor the Slow Tea Aroma of Ancient Villages

When the clouds part over Fanjingshan, its extraordinary peaks take your breath away. The simple and tranquil Yunshe Village carries a faint aroma of matcha, while the historically rich Zhongnanmen Ancient Town preserves memories of bygone eras—the beauty of Tongren lies in the ever-changing mountain vistas and the lively atmosphere of its alleyways. Day 1: ⛰ Fanjingshan: The Stunning Peaks Emerging from the Clouds Climbing the Hongyun Golden Summit feels like a spiritual journey. The 2,336-meter-high stone steps fade in and out of the mist, and the damp air makes each step heavier. When I reached the summit, thick fog enveloped me—until a mountain breeze suddenly swept through, parting the clouds like a curtain. Sunlight poured down, revealing the Hongyun Golden Summit in all its unguarded glory. The Mushroom Stone stands quietly by the cliff edge, as if it has been waiting for eons. In that moment, I finally understood why ancient people called this place "Brahma's Pure Land." 🏡 Qisu: A Riverside Oasis After descending, I checked into Qisu Fanjingshan Lodge, a standalone lakeside pod with floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides—perfect for stargazing from bed. Stepping outside, I was greeted by lush greenery. The stream gurgled over pebbles like scattered musical notes. A picnic blanket was already laid out on the lawn—ideal for flipping through travel magazines or running barefoot on the cool grass, with the layered mountains in the distance resembling an ink-wash painting in motion. At night, I fell asleep to the murmuring stream. In the morning, opening the window, I was met with mountain mist carrying the scent of grass and trees. Here, even daydreaming becomes an activity—watching dragonflies skim the water, waiting for a cloud to drift over the peak, or counting the tiny fish in the stream. Day 2: 🛖 Yunshe Village: A Matcha and Rice Wine Encounter Dubbed "China's First Tujia Village" by National Geographic, this place still preserves Ming- and Qing-era Tujia barrel houses, nestled harmoniously among the mountains. At a local matcha shop, I ordered a cup of matcha rice wine. The barista expertly whisked the dark green powder in a celadon bowl until a fine foam formed, then added sweet homemade rice wine—creating an unexpectedly layered flavor. 🏯 Zhongnanmen Ancient Town: Frozen in Time Walking through this Ming-dynasty town, I paused beneath the "Father-Son Imperial Scholars Archway," touching its weathered carvings to feel the glory of a scholarly family from the imperial examination era. Visit at dusk when lanterns light up, and the upturned eaves cast silhouettes against the twilight—transporting you 600 years back in time. 🥘 Tongren's Flavors: Between Wilderness and City Life ✔ Smoked Pork Knuckle Hotpot: Tender, smoky knuckles stewed with pickled greens and potatoes, rich and savory. ✔ Jiangkou Rice Tofu: Silky rice tofu topped with chili oil and pickled radish, refreshing and light. ✔ Songtao Braised Duck: Duck marinated in a secret braising sauce, firm-textured with a sweet-salty balance. ✔ Matcha Rice Wine: Hand-whisked matcha meets Tujia sweet rice wine—bitter at first, then sweetly lingering. On my last day, I packed some Fanjingshan green tea. "The beauty of Tongren," I thought, "should be savored slowly, like tea." Those moments when the clouds parted, the tea fragrance drifting from ancient villages—all became the most tender patina of memory.
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Posted: Jun 9, 2025
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