Beijing Flavor 3: The Cross of Gray Bricks in Nantang

On Xuanwumen East Street, a cross-shaped building with gray bricks and tiles stands out against the blue winter sky. The silhouette of Jesus on the flying eaves faces the ridge beasts. This is Nantang, the oldest Catholic church in China, built in 1605. After four years of renovation, it is finally open to the public. There are few visitors in Nantang in winter, so we can take our time to appreciate it. Built under the supervision of Matteo Ricci, the facade of Nantang is a solidified epic. Six vermilion columns support the three-layered gable roof. The warm winter sun shines through the swastika-patterned carved windows, casting diamond-shaped patterns on the gray brick walls. It looks like the leaking windows of a Jiangnan garden, but it clearly outlines the shape of a Latin cross. The church is built entirely of Beijing's gray bricks, and the delicate and transparent Chinese brick carvings on the facade of the main entrance are grand and magnificent, perfectly blending with Beijing's hutongs and courtyards. Entering the sanctuary, the octagonal skylight on the dome brings in natural light, illuminating the couplets on both sides of the altar: "The true Lord who existed before time and space, the great power of benevolence and righteousness." The paintings between the columns are not biblical stories, but ink-drawn lotus flowers and auspicious clouds. The holy water font is shaped like a bronze lotus petal. The statue of the Virgin Mary, wearing a Ming-style cloak, stands on a Sumeru pedestal, with a Mona Lisa-like smile, blending the solemnity of Western icons with the compassion of Chinese bodhisattvas. Unlike the dizzying vertical ascent of Gothic churches, the spatial proportions of Nantang are similar to the side halls of the Forbidden City, with the eaves just high enough to accommodate the branches of the ancient locust trees in the courtyard. Believers kneel on brocade cushions to pray, and the sunlight weaves a net of light on the ground through the ice-cracked window lattice, creating a sense of tranquility reminiscent of a Zen temple. When the organ and chimes play simultaneously, the Latin prayers mix with the pigeon whistles from the hutongs, creating a unique field of faith. Tips: 1. Take the subway to Xuanwumen Station, and walk for 4-5 minutes to reach Nantang; 2. Nantang closes at noon, so plan your visit accordingly; 3. There is a coffee shop in the courtyard of Nantang. Enjoying a cup of coffee in the quietness of Nantang in winter is a great way to relax. Xuanwumen