Dangray Yumtso: The Crown Jewel of Northern Ali's Lakes

Northern Ali is a self-drive route starting from Shiquanhe and heading east through the hinterlands of Ali and Nagqu. Most self-drivers will veer off the main road, weaving through the scattered lakes, embarking on a journey of "one lake after another." These plateau lakes, mostly saltwater, vary in size and shape. Among the more famous are Zhari Namco, Tibet's third-largest lake, Siling Co, whose area is constantly expanding, and lesser-known lakes like Taro Co, Zhabuye Co, and Renqingxiubu Co. However, if you could only choose one lake on this thousand-kilometer journey, Dangray Yumtso would undoubtedly be the winner. Dangray Yumtso covers over 800 square kilometers, ranking fourth among Tibet's many lakes. Its maximum depth of 230 meters is almost twice that of Namtso. The narrow and long lake resembles a vajra. The north-south fractured lake basin forms a massive plateau tectonic lake, and Dangqiong Co, 20 kilometers to the north, can also be considered part of this tectonic lake. On the Tibetan Plateau at an altitude of over 4,000 meters, Dangray Yumtso is surrounded by mountains, with Mount Dago in the south being particularly prominent. It is also a sacred mountain in ancient Zhangzhung and Bon religion. The humid microclimate within the embrace of the mountains allows both farming and nomadic cultures to thrive along the shores of Dangray Yumtso. Its easily defensible terrain further establishes it as a "chosen land" in Northern Tibet. Before the introduction of Buddhism, Bon religion designated it as a holy lake, and the Zhangzhung Kingdom built its "Eastern Capital" palace on the eastern side of the lake. After the Zhangzhung Kingdom was annihilated by the Tubo Dynasty, human activities in this area turned to farming and herding, leaving behind ruins like Qiongzong, as well as legends of the Bon sacred mountain and holy lake. Natural beauty and historical and cultural appeal are the two major draws of Dangray Yumtso for travelers, while the villages and temples around the lake distinguish it from other lakes in Northern Tibet. The televised village of Wenbunan has the potential to become an internet-famous check-in spot. However, facing the vast holy lake, it still maintains a simple life of sunrise and sunset. This is partly due to its distance from modern cities and largely thanks to the villagers' adherence to the ancient Bon religion. The Wenbu Temple in the village is the spiritual source of their simple life. Besides Wenbunan, there are several other Bon temples worth visiting around Dangray Yumtso. The Yuben Temple in Jishong Village has a history of at least 1,300 years. It is also the place of birth of the last king of Zhangzhung. The mountainside buildings and the temple within the caves are truly wondrous. Qucue Temple predates the founding of the People's Republic of China by a century. The numerous Bon scriptures and classics preserved within solidify its status within the Nyingma Bon tradition. The Sexi Temple at the foot of Mount Dago is smaller in scale but boasts purer religious rituals. Wenbu North Village by Dangqiong Co also has a temple, but it has been converted from Bon to the Kagyu school. The combination of snowy mountains and lakes is not uncommon in Tibet, such as the "sacred mountain and holy lake" combination of Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar in Purang, Ali, and Lake Puma Yumco and Kula Kangri in Shannan. However, for Dangray Yumtso, apart from its niche label due to its remote location, you can stay in Wenbunan, leisurely sipping butter tea while gazing at the lake reflecting the snowy mountains outside your window. Perhaps this is Dangray Yumtso's most irresistible allure for self-drivers!