Jiuzhaigou | The water is blue, unreasonably blue
For some places, you might suspect the photos have filters.
There is no need to doubt Jiuzhaigou.
It tunes the blues and greens to a concentration visible to the naked eye, then tells you: this is real.
First, here are three moments that made me stand still and forget to take out my phone.
💧 Five Flower Lake. From 9:00 AM to 11:00 AM, the sunlight hits at an angle, and the calcified dead wood at the bottom of the lake is clearly visible. The blue seeps into the green, and the green fades into transparency. Looking down from Tiger Mouth, the entire lake looks like a peacock spreading its tail, but you cannot capture it. Photos don't do it justice.
💧 Mirror Lake. Before 8:00 AM, there is no wind. The water surface is as flat as a piece of polished glass, and the reflection of the mountains is perfectly imprinted in the water, making it impossible to tell which side is up. It only lasts for that half hour. Once the wind picks up later, the mirror shatters.
💧 Pearl Shoal Waterfall. This is the location of the opening scene of the 1986 version of "Journey to the West." The water rolls down the calcified shoal and shatters into countless beads. Standing on the boardwalk, the mist hits your face, a refreshing chill that makes you shiver.
🗺️ Route, Y-shaped, go from top to bottom
Jiuzhaigou consists of three valleys in a Y-shape. The sightseeing bus is a must, so don't try to save money here. The core logic is simple: take the bus to the top, then walk down. Spend your energy on looking at the water, not on climbing.
In the morning, enter the valley and head to Rize Valley (right line) first. Take the bus directly to Arrow Bamboo Lake, then walk down to Panda Lake, Five Flower Lake, and Pearl Shoal Waterfall. Save enough time for Five Flower Lake; this is the place in the entire valley most worth standing still for.
At noon, transfer at Nuorilang Center and eat the packed food you brought or simple supplies. Don't spend too much time here. The afternoon light is waiting for you.
In the afternoon, walk through Zechawa Valley (left line). Long Lake is the largest lake in Jiuzhaigou; it is open, quiet, and faces snow-capped mountains. Walk for 15 minutes to Five Color Pool. It is small, but its color is the most unreasonable, as if someone poured a whole tube of paint into it.
On your way out, follow Shuzheng Valley. Nuorilang Waterfall is wide and loud; you have to shout to be heard when standing in front of it. Shuzheng Lakes stack down one after another. If you still have energy, get off the bus and walk along the boardwalk for a while; if you don't, sit on the bus and watch quietly, and it will still be worth it.
🍲 After exiting the valley, your stomach needs something hot
Yak beef hot pot. The broth is made from boiled bones. It is rich but not greasy. The yak beef is stewed until it falls apart at the touch of a chopstick. Dip it in a little dry dipping sauce, and you will be pulled back from that chilly state on the mountain.
Look for potato mochi at the small stalls at the entrance of the village. The highland potatoes are pounded until soft, sticky, and stretchy, then topped with pickled vegetable soup and chili oil. The sour and spicy flavor hits you all at once, which is more satisfying than any souvenir.
You might not be used to butter tea the first time you drink it. Pour a little bit first, and pair it with a bite of highland barley cake; the salty and savory flavor will go down smoothly.
⚠️ A few non-negotiable truths
Book your attraction tickets in advance; there are no ticket windows on-site. During peak season, book three to seven days in advance. This is not a suggestion, it is a must.
Do not wear pure cotton. Wear a quick-drying base layer, a fleece, and a windproof jacket. The temperature difference between the mountain and the valley is over 10 degrees. Take off layers when you get hot walking on the boardwalk, and put them back on immediately when you stop.
The altitude is between 2,000 and 3,100 meters. It is not very high, but you will be out of breath walking along the Long Lake section. Go slowly, and do not run or jump.
The only place to get a proper meal in the valley is Nuorilang Center, which is expensive and requires queuing. Stuff two chocolate bars in your bag; they are more useful than anything else.
One last sentence: Your camera can only capture 10% of the water in Jiuzhaigou. For the rest, you have to stand there and take it in with your eyes.
Jiuzhaigou isn't responsible for your "check-ins."
It is responsible for making you stand in front of a lake, suddenly not knowing what to say, and not wanting to say anything at all.
When the wind passes, the water surface ripples, then flattens again.
You leave, but it stays there, blue.