Bagan's top spot for sunrise and sunset: Shwesandaw Pagoda
Bagan is renowned for its sunrise and sunset views, and the best place to enjoy these is undoubtedly Shwesandaw Pagoda, the tallest pagoda in Bagan. The pagoda has five levels, each with a terrace to linger on, but you have to climb steep stairs first. Those afraid of heights might feel shaky, but once you reach the top, it's worth the effort.
Shwesandaw Pagoda covers a large area, and because of its height and the lack of tall buildings in Bagan, the view from the top is excellent. You can even see the Irrawaddy River. Every day at sunrise and sunset, the place is packed with people eager to witness the beautiful scenery. During sunrise, you can also see hot air balloons drifting into the sky, which is quite a lucky sight.
The pagoda is a standard red-brick structure, with the bottom two levels in red brick and the top three levels painted white, making it quite striking. Besides the panoramic views, the pagoda also houses relics of Buddha's hair and a large reclining Buddha statue, which are worth seeing.
However, after the pandemic, for safety and heritage preservation reasons, climbing pagodas in Bagan has been completely banned. Climbing Shwesandaw Pagoda to enjoy the sunrise and sunset is now a thing of the past, which is quite a pity.