Kanasi: The Backyard of the Gods
I. Overview of Kanas
Location: Burqin County, Altay Prefecture, Xinjiang, deep in the Altai Mountains, at the border of China, Russia, and Mongolia.
Core Scenic Areas:
- **Kanas Lake**: A glacial barrier lake, rumored home of the "lake monster," with water that changes color (shifting between blue and green).
- **Three Bays (Immortal Bay, Moon Bay, and Crouching Dragon Bay)**: A must-do hiking route, shrouded in morning mist like a fairyland.
- **Fish Watching Pavilion**: The best vantage point for panoramic views of Kanas Lake (requires climbing 1,068 steps).
- **Baihaba Village**: The "First Village in Northwest China," a primitive Tuvan settlement requiring a border permit.
- **Hem Village**: A fairytale-like log cabin village, stunning in autumn foliage and morning mist (often combined with Kanas visits).
II. Best Travel Seasons
- **Autumn (mid-Sept to early Oct)**: Forests ablaze with color, golden birch trees reflecting on emerald waters—peak photography season (and crowds).
- **Summer (June-Aug)**: Lush grasslands, wildflowers in bloom, and cool temperatures (15-25°C), ideal for escaping the heat.
- **Winter (Dec-Feb)**: Snow-covered tranquility, offering experiences like dog sledding and "instant freezing" water splashes (dress warmly!).
Avoid: **April-May** (muddy from snowmelt) and **November** (transitional period with partial closures before winter).
III. Must-Visit Spots & Experiences
1. **Kanas Lake**
- Boat cruise/rafting: Explore the lake’s heart and its "color-changing" mystery (¥120/person).
- Lakeside boardwalk hike: From the dock to petroglyph areas, up close with pristine forests and waters.
2. **Three Bays Hike**
- Immortal Bay at dawn: Mist blankets the bay around sunrise (~6:00 in summer), creating magical lightplay.
- Moon Bay to Crouching Dragon Bay: A 3km wooden trail overlooking S-shaped bends and river islands.
3. **Fish Watching Pavilion**
- Summit views of Kanas Lake; lucky visitors might spot mysterious ripples from "unknown creatures."
4. **Hem Village**
- Sunrise at the viewpoint: Watch the village emerge from mist, with chimney smoke weaving through log cabins.
- Birch forest ride: Rent horses or bikes to explore autumn’s hidden beauty.
5. **Baihaba Village**
- China-Kazakhstan Grand Canyon: Gaze into Kazakhstan’s vast pastures.
- Tuvan home visit: Savor milk tea and traditional *suur* (reed pipe) music.
IV. Transportation Guide
1. **Getting There**
- By air: Fly to Altay/Kanas Airport (more flights in peak season), then hire a car to Kanas (~3hrs).
- Self-drive: Ürümqi → Burqin (~8hrs) → Kanas (~3hrs), passing Ulungur Lake and Colorful Beach.
- In-park transport:
- Shuttle buses: Base fare included in ticket (Jiadengyu → Transfer Center); separate tickets for Fish Watching Pavilion/Baihaba.
- Horseback/hiking: Hem-Kanas trail (~30km, 2 days) through virgin forests and meadows.
2. **Recommended Itineraries**
- **3-Day Classic**:
Day 1: Jiadengyu → Kanas Lake → Fish Watching Pavilion → overnight in park.
Day 2: Three Bays hike → Baihaba Village → overnight in Baihaba.
Day 3: Return to Kanas → Hem Village → sunset at Hem viewpoint.
- **4-Day In-Depth**: Add Hem sunrise → Little Black Lake hike → Naren Pasture (summer only).
V. Accommodation Tips
1. **Inside the Park**
- Kanas Old/New Village: Tuvan-style lodges (~¥300-600/night), basic but well-located.
- Hem Village: Trendy stays like "Century-Old Cabin" or "Peach Blossom Resort"; autumn rates double (book 3 months ahead).
2. **Outside the Park**
- Jiadengyu: Hotel cluster (e.g., Yuehu Hotel), budget-friendly (~30% cheaper than in-park).
- Burqin County: Budget hotels (~¥200/night), ideal for layovers; visit the riverside night market.
VI. Practical Tips
1. **Tickets & Costs**
- Kanas: ¥230/2 days (includes shuttle); Fish Watching Pavilion shuttle ¥20; Baihaba ¥75 (with border permit).
- Hem Village: ¥102 (includes shuttle); horseback riding ~¥80/hour.
2. **Essentials to Pack**
- Warm layers: All seasons demand windbreakers (weather shifts fast); winter needs down jackets + snow boots.
- Sun protection: High-altitude UV calls for sunglasses, hats, and sunscreen.
- Bug spray: Summer lakeside mosquitoes are relentless.
3. **Key Notes**
- Border permit: Required for Baihaba (apply at Transfer Center/Burqin with ID).
- Eco-rules: Drones banned (permit needed); no littering.
- Connectivity: Weak signal—carry cash and offline maps.
VII. Food Recs
- **Tuvan flavors**: Hand-torn lamb, dried yogurt, air-dried beef, butter tea.
- **Xinjiang classics**: Big-plate chicken, grilled *Aspius* fish (Burqin night market), lamb pilaf.
- **DIY snacks**: Park food is pricey/limited; pack naan bread and chocolate for energy.