Enjoying the ancient temple with its ginkgo trees and pagoda
Wenshu Monastery, Chengdu: A Thousand-Year-Old Zen Forest Amidst the Urban Bustle
In the heart of Chengdu, a city known for its tranquility, lies a wondrous place: separated from the bustling city by only a wall. Outside, traffic throngs and crowds of people taking photos at popular spots; inside, a serene world of chanting and ancient trees. This is Wenshu Monastery—a Buddhist Zen forest founded in the Sui Dynasty, enduring over a thousand years of vicissitudes, and still vibrantly present in the daily lives of Chengdu residents. It is not only one of the four major Buddhist monasteries in western Sichuan and a key national Buddhist temple in Han Chinese areas designated by the State Council, but also a "empty forest" monastery that blends history, architecture, art, and the philosophy of everyday life.
I. Historical Evolution: A Thousand-Year Legacy from "Xinxiang Temple" to "Konglin Hall"
The history of Wenshu Monastery is a miniature epic, breathing and sharing the fate of Chengdu. Its origins can be traced back to the Sui Dynasty (605-617 AD), when it was built by King Yang Xiu of Shu for the nun Xinxiang, hence its initial name "Xinxiang Temple." During the Tang Dynasty's persecution of Buddhism and the chaos of the late Ming Dynasty, the temple was nearly destroyed, with only ten iron-cast guardian deities and two ancient cedar trees remaining, stubbornly protecting the embers of the Buddhist lineage.
The real turning point occurred in the 20th year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign (1681). Zen Master Cidu came to the ruins and built a thatched hut between the two cedar trees for ascetic practice. Legend has it that when he passed away and was cremated, the flames condensed in the air into an image of Manjushri Bodhisattva, lingering for a long time. Believers revered him as an incarnation of Manjushri, and the temple was renamed "Wenshu Monastery." From the 36th year of the Kangxi Emperor's reign, officials, gentry, soldiers, and civilians donated funds for its reconstruction, establishing its present layout. The Kangxi Emperor bestowed the plaque "Konglin" (Empty Forest), hence Wenshu Monastery is also known as "Konglin Hall." After expansions during the Jiaqing and Daoguang reigns, it eventually became a vast monastery covering over 200,000 square meters, with magnificent halls and pavilions.
II. Architecture and Art: A Model of Qing Dynasty Architecture and a Treasure Trove of Cultural Relics
The architecture of Wenshu Monastery is typical of the ancient architecture of the western Sichuan plain. Facing south, it progresses along a central axis, forming a solemn and enclosed courtyard layout. Its main buildings are all Qing Dynasty reconstructions of wood and stone structures, using Sichuan gorges stone for pillars, simple yet magnificent, and a precious example of ancient Chinese architectural art.
The core architectural sequence begins at the mountain gate, consisting of the Hall of Heavenly Kings, the Hall of the Three Great Bodhisattvas, the Great Buddha Hall, the Dharma Hall, and the Sutra Repository. To the east and west are the Bell and Drum Towers, the Dining Hall, and corridors, totaling over 190 rooms. Among them, the Dharma Hall preserves ten iron statues of guardian deities cast in the Song Dynasty, with a unique ancient style, a treasure that survived the calamity of the monastery. The temple houses a treasure trove of cultural relics:
* **Buddhist Relics:** The most precious is undoubtedly the skull relic of the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang. This skull relic survived wars and was lost in modern times. It was later brought to Sichuan by chance and ultimately preserved intact to this day thanks to the life-saving protection of the former abbot of Wenshu Monastery, Master Kuanlin, during a special period. It has become a rare Buddhist treasure.
* **Artistic Treasures:** The temple houses over 300 Buddha statues of various sizes, made of bronze, iron, jade, wood, and clay, mostly cast by renowned Qing Dynasty craftsmen, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. In addition, it also possesses Emperor Kangxi's calligraphy of "Konglin," a stele inscription of the poem "Haiyue," a Ming Dynasty stele inscription of the Diamond Sutra, a Tang Dynasty gilded Japanese prayer wheel, and Indian palm-leaf scriptures.
* **Cultural Treasures:** The long corridor and stele forest gather calligraphy inscriptions from the Qing Dynasty imperial family to modern masters such as Yu Youren, Xie Wuliang, and Qi Gong, exuding a rich literary atmosphere.
III. Zen-Inspired Living: Intangible Cultural Heritage and Urban Spiritual Practice
The charm of Wenshu Monastery lies not only in its antiquity but also in its vibrant present. It perfectly embodies the concept of "Humanistic Buddhism," seamlessly integrating profound Zen philosophy into the daily lives of Chengdu residents.
The over 300-year-old "Laba Festival Temple Fair" is a vivid example. This representative activity, listed as a Chengdu Intangible Cultural Heritage, is held annually in the twelfth lunar month. Its core is "offering Laba porridge and creating joyful connections." Wenshu Monastery not only distributes hundreds of thousands of cups of hot porridge free of charge to citizens offline but also sets up hundreds of convenient service points throughout the city, delivering blessings to every corner of the city. During the temple fair, the monastery's garden area hosts a garden party incorporating traditional folk customs such as pitch-pot, flower arranging, and lantern riddles, giving the ancient festival a new lease on life.
In daily life, Wenshu Monastery is also a spiritual home for the people of Chengdu. The temple's incense and vegetarian dining hall offers serene vegetarian meals, while the adjacent tea garden is a perfect place to experience Chengdu's slow-paced lifestyle: spend a few yuan to brew a bowl of covered tea, sit under a century-old ginkgo or sycamore tree, listen to the wind and the bells, watch the sunlight move, and you can truly feel the city's Zen-like tranquility.
IV. Tour Guide: An Immersive Experience of the "Empty Forest"
Basic Information
· Address: No. 66, Wenshu Monastery Street, Qingyang District, Chengdu.
· Opening Hours: 08:00-17:00 year-round.
· Admission: Free.
· Transportation: Exit K of Wenshu Monastery Station on Metro Line 1, approximately a 5-minute walk.
Tour Route and Experience Suggestions
1. Architectural Axis Tour: Visit the major halls along the central axis, focusing on experiencing the profound history of the Dharma Hall and the solemnity of the Sutra Repository.
2. Tranquil Stroll in the Garden: After the axis tour, you can enter the garden area on the west side. Here, ancient trees reach for the sky, pavilions are exquisitely crafted, and the golden ginkgo leaves in autumn are particularly breathtaking, making it an ideal spot for quiet contemplation and experiencing Zen.
3. Unique Experiences:
* **Buddhist Worship and Blessing:** Three sticks of incense can be obtained free of charge within the temple; please offer incense respectfully.
* **Tea and Vegetarian Meals:** Be sure to sit in the tea garden and experience the harmony of Zen and tea; the vegetarian dishes at Xiangzhai Hall are also worth trying.
* **Spotlight:** The red wall outside the temple, inscribed with "Happiness" and "World Peace, Human Happiness," are popular photo backdrops.
4. **Nearby Attractions:** The area in front of Wenshu Monastery has been developed into the "Wenshu Fang" historical and cultural district. The uniformly built antique-style buildings house numerous Chengdu specialty snacks, such as Dongzikou Zhang Liangfen (cold noodles) and a palace-style pastry shop, perfectly combining cultural tourism with culinary experiences.
In conclusion, Wenshu Monastery is an irreplaceable cultural landmark of Chengdu. It is an ancient temple with a history of over a thousand years, a museum of architecture and art, and a Zen-like space where modern people can find peace and tranquility amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. Here, history is not a cold display, but a warm life that permeates every wisp of incense, every cup of tea, and every relaxed face.