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IlonaKokkoSingapore

Back from Shaoxing, here's some brutally honest truth

Just returned from wandering around Shaoxing, and this 3-day trip completely changed my perception of "Jiangnan" – no over-commercialized hustle, just small bridges over flowing water and a pace of life so slow it seeps into your bones. But there are definitely some pitfalls to avoid, so let me share my heartfelt thoughts~🌿 🚣‍♀️ First, why it's worth a special trip Shaoxing's "slowness" is ingrained in its soul! At dawn on Cangqiao Straight Street, you’ll see grandmothers washing clothes by the river, and when the black-canopied boats glide by, the oars sound like an old tune 🎵. The sense of history here isn’t forced—Lu Xun’s childhood home’s "Hundred-Grass Garden" still has mulberries, and the broken walls of Shen Garden hide the love story of Lu You and Tang Wan. Wander the alleys, and you might stumble upon century-old gates. The best surprise? It’s budget-friendly: ¥10 for a cup of yellow wine milk tea, ¥20 for a 40-minute black-canopied boat ride—even students can enjoy it without breaking the bank 💰. ✨ 3-day lazy itinerary **Day 1**: Lu Xun’s Hometown → Shen Garden → Cangqiao Straight Street Start with Lu Xun’s Hometown (free!)—see the "Sanwei Study" and "Hundred-Grass Garden" from textbooks. Don’t miss Xianheng Hotel at the entrance; order a plate of fennel beans with yellow wine and pretend you’re Kong Yiji 😜. In the afternoon, head to Shen Garden—people linger before the engraved "Phoenix Hairpin" poem, and the lotus blooms beautifully in July. Sit in a pavilion listening to Yue opera drifting by, and you’ll feel like you’ve time-traveled. At dusk, stroll Cangqiao Straight Street—lanterns light up the cobblestones reflecting the water, and the stinky tofu is so fragrant you’ll stomp your feet in delight! **Day 2**: East Lake → Orchid Pavilion → Shusheng’s Hometown East Lake is less crowded than West Lake! Take a black-canopied boat into the karst cave—the boatman will tell the legend of "Peach Blossom Cave," and the oars’ echoes sound like a natural symphony 🎶. At Orchid Pavilion, follow a guide to hear stories and try writing poetry at the "Winding Stream" spot—even if your calligraphy’s bad, you can still play the literati. At night, visit Shusheng’s Hometown—calligraphy stalls surround Wang Xizhi’s former residence’s ink pond. Sit by the river with a bowl of wontons, watching lanterns ripple in the water—this is true Jiangnan nightlife. **Day 3**: Keyan Scenic Area → Last-minute eats before leaving Keyan’s "Cloud Stone" is surreal! A 30-meter-tall, top-heavy rock pillar has stood for millennia—photograph it against the sky, and it looks photoshopped 🌪️. In the afternoon, return to the city for Bazi Bridge, where three rivers meet. Watch black-canopied boats pass under the arches—just raise your phone for an instant ink-wash painting. Before leaving, grab vacuum-packed Shaoxing soy sauce duck—it pairs perfectly with rice at home! 🍜 Foodie checklist: • **Shaoxing stinky tofu**: Crispy outside, tender inside, dipped in sweet-spicy sauce—¥5 for 3 skewers. The grandpa’s stall on Cangqiao Straight Street is the real deal. • **Yellow wine popsicle**: Creamy with a hint of wine—not too strong, ¥10 for 2. Perfect for cooling off while walking 🍦. • **Fennel beans**: Xianheng Hotel’s version is the best—soft, flavorful, and great with yellow wine. ¥10 for a plate that lasts all afternoon. • **Drunken chicken**: Tender chicken soaked in yellow wine, slightly sweet—amazing with congee for breakfast. ¥25 gets you a big portion 🐔. 💡 Pro tips: • **Bargain for black-canopied boats!** Ask around—¥20-30 per person is fair. • **Bring a fan in summer**—shady spots are breezy, but sunscreen is still a must. • **Don’t overdo yellow wine milk tea!** It has alcohol—one cup is just right for a light buzz. Shaoxing isn’t a "wow" kind of destination, but it grows on you. Sitting at the train station, watching the rivers and stone bridges, I finally understood why Lu Xun always wrote about "black-canopied boats"—this slowness is a tenderness etched into the bones.
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Posted: Jul 13, 2025
Yiu Wun Chung
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