Qikou Ancient Town, the First Town of the Nine Bends of the Yellow River

Geographical Location Qikou Ancient Town is located in Lin County, Lüliang City, Shanxi Province, situated at the confluence of the Yellow River and Qiu River. Nestled against the Lüliang Mountains and along the Yellow River, it is known as the "First Town of the Nine Bends of the Yellow River." This place was once a key water and land transportation hub for Shanxi merchants traveling to the northwest during the Ming and Qing dynasties through the Republic of China period. Today, it still retains the original and rustic landscape of the Loess Plateau. It is about a one-hour drive from Lüliang city center, along the way you can enjoy the magnificent scenery of the deeply incised loess hills and the Yellow River canyon. Historical Architecture and Layout The core area of the ancient town consists of three main streets: West Market Street, Middle Market Street, and East Market Street, corresponding to the former warehouses, shops, and residences respectively. The streets are paved with giant Yellow River pebbles, flanked by layered Ming and Qing dynasty cave dwellings. The Heilon Temple stands as the highest point, offering a panoramic view of the rushing Yellow River and the entire ancient town. The temple’s stage is still used for performing Jinbei Daoqing opera, with wind chimes hanging from the eaves chiming in the breeze, blending with the sound of the Yellow River waves. Residential Houses and Courtyards The century-old merchant courtyards such as Changshengxing and Rongguangdian are well preserved. Their architecture combines the cave dwellings of western Shanxi with the Hui-style horse-head walls. Between the blue bricks and gray tiles, exquisite brick carvings of "Fu Lu Shou" (Fortune, Prosperity, Longevity) patterns can be seen. Typical courtyards are two-entry style, with shops in front and warehouses behind, and underground silver storage cellars. The cave dwellings are warm in winter and cool in summer, with arched domes plastered in white lime, wooden window frames embedded with paper-cut window flowers, and old items like kang beds, rice jars, and oil baskets still preserved in their original form. Cultural Experience In the early morning, you can join local residents to experience the Yellow River rope hauling songs. Visit Lijiashan Village outside the ancient town (the prototype of the "Han Tomb" painted by Wu Guanzhong), where layers of cave dwellings resembling honeycombs are embedded in the mountainside. In the evening, listen to the intangible cultural heritage "Qikou storytelling" by the Yellow River bank, where veteran artists sing the stories of Shanxi merchants accompanied by the sanxian (three-stringed lute). On market days, you can also see donkeys carrying grain sacks and camel caravans passing through the ancient alleys, as if traveling back to the bustling commercial town of a hundred years ago. Food and Local Flavor Be sure to try the Yellow River big carp paired with Youmian Kaolao noodles, and the aroma of jujube cake and Wantuo freshly baked on old street stoves fills the air. Stay overnight in a local guesthouse in the ancient town, where you can enjoy sea buckthorn juice while stargazing in the cave dwelling courtyard, with the sound of the Yellow River waves lulling you to sleep. In the morning, mist drifts over the bluestone streets like a light veil. Overall Evaluation Qikou Ancient Town is not only a microcosm of the geographical wonders of the Loess Plateau but also a living museum of Shanxi merchant culture. Its rugged Yellow River stone alleys, weathered warehouse inscriptions, and simple folk customs together create a three-century-long dialogue across time and space. For travelers seeking historical depth and the original charm of mountains and rivers, this place is truly the soul’s resting place of the Shanxi-Shaanxi canyon.