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ISABEL KLEINUnited States

Exploring the Secluded Dongxiao Palace: A Whisper with History

The Dongxiao Palace ruins are hidden in the green hills and valleys. It was once one of the "Thirty-Six Heavens" of Taoism, which gave me the idea to explore it. I drove to Qingshan Lake Street in Lin'an District and turned into a narrow and quiet mountain road. The navigation showed that "Dongxiao Palace" had arrived, but in front of me was only a stone mountain gate with mottled moss and blurred handwriting on the plaque. According to records, Dongxiao Palace was built in the Han Dynasty. During its heyday in the Song Dynasty, it was large in scale with continuous halls. Even Su Shi and Lu You left poems here. Today, only this mountain gate remains, like a silent old man, guarding the old dreams scattered by time. Underneath my feet are broken flagstones, with tenacious weeds growing out of the cracks. Halfway up the mountain, several huge stone caves come into view. The Dadi Cave is located in the middle, and a rebuilt small hall stands alone next to it with its doors tightly closed. Peeking through the window gaps, there are several statues of gods in the dim room, and a thin layer of ash has accumulated in the incense burner, which should be from occasional worship by nearby villagers. A cultural relic protection monument stands next to the mountain gate, marking it as a "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit," but apart from this monument and scattered stone components, there is almost no trace of it. Looking back at the green mountain scenery, I suddenly realized that Dongxiao Palace has never really disappeared. It is in Su Shi's poems, in the records of the Taoist Canon, and on every piece of moss-covered stone. And we, the visitors, are just a comma-like speck of dust in its long years. Address: Qingshan Lake Street, Lin'an District, Hangzhou (reachable by navigating to "Dongxiao Palace Ruins"; cars can be parked on the village road at the foot of the mountain). Reminder: There are no commercial facilities at the ruins, so you need to bring your own drinking water; wear non-slip shoes, as some of the stone steps are loose.
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Posted: Apr 29, 2025
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