The Wind Passes Through Dehong, Encountering the Gentleness and Passion of Western Yunnan
When the plane lands at Mangshi Airport, a breeze mixed with the sweet fragrance of tropical fruits and the scent of Burmese osmanthus greets me. I know that Dehong in western Yunnan is finally welcoming me in its most vibrant form. Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture is like a jade dropped on the China-Myanmar border, hiding the lushness of rainforests, the colorful ethnic cultures, and the unique laziness and passion of the borderlands. On this journey, I walk from the gentle streets of Mangshi to the border life of Ruili, and then to the pristine nature of Yingjiang, each step beating to the most captivating pulse of Dehong.
Mangshi: A Gentle Small City Illuminated by the Golden Pagoda
Mangshi is the prefectural capital of Dehong, less noisy than Dali and Lijiang, with a slower, gentler pace typical of western Yunnan. Stepping out of the airport, palm trees and bougainvillea grow wildly along the streets, the pointed roofs of Dai-style buildings gleam golden under the sun, and even the street signs are written in Chinese, Dai, and Jingpo languages, immersing you in the borderland atmosphere.
The first stop is the Menghuan Golden Pagoda, standing atop Leiya Mountain, a landmark of Mangshi. The pagoda is gilded all over, and against the blue sky and white clouds, it looks like a golden giant tower rising from the rainforest. Walking up the stone steps, the gentle ringing of the pagoda’s bronze bells drifts in the wind. The prayer wheels at the base are polished shiny by devotees’ hands. Dai elders dressed in dark blue cloth shirts hold bodhi leaves and walk around the pagoda with reverence. From the top, you can overlook the entire city of Mangshi, with scattered houses, vast rice fields, and distant green mountains blending into a gentle watercolor painting.
Opposite the Golden Pagoda is the Menghuan Silver Pagoda, a building with white walls and a silver roof that shines with a cool light under the sun. It is less solemn than the Golden Pagoda but more graceful. Next to the Silver Pagoda is a lotus pond reflecting the pagoda, and standing by the pond in Dai attire feels like falling into a dream where Jiangnan and western Yunnan merge. At dusk, the Silver Pagoda lights up, its white body outlined by warm light, adding a touch of romance.
The lively spirit of Mangshi is hidden in the local food scattered throughout the streets and alleys. At Mengbanaxi Food City, you must try Sa Pie — rice noodles made with beef intestine juice, initially slightly bitter but leaving a refreshing aftertaste, a distinctive Dai flavor; Paoluda is a must-order dessert, with a coconut milk base, toasted bread crisps, sago, and coconut jelly, sweet but not greasy, full of coconut aroma. There’s also sour bamboo shoot chicken and lemongrass grilled fish, whose sour, spicy, and fragrant flavors are Dehong’s first surprise for your taste buds.
At night, the busiest place in Mangshi is the Shubaota Night Market. The pagoda and the tree grow intertwined, with a century-old banyan tree embracing the Buddhist pagoda, creating a unique scene in Mangshi. The night market is full of snack stalls and fruit stands. Burmese grilled sticky rice cakes are roasted golden and crispy on the iron plate, with a sweet condensed milk filling; fresh custard apples, avocados, and passion fruits are so affordable you can’t help but indulge. Sitting on a small stool at the night market, listening to vendors calling out in a mix of Dai and Yunnan dialects, with the evening breeze on your face, you feel completely at ease.
Ruili: One Village, Two Countries — The Magical Border Life
An hour’s drive from Mangshi brings you to Ruili. This small city faces Myanmar across the river, with the border line winding through it. The cultures of China and Myanmar blend here, and walking the streets, you can encounter the magical scene of “stepping across two countries in one step.”
The One Village Two Countries Scenic Area is the most special place in Ruili. The village is split by the border line; the Chinese side is called Yinjing, and the Myanmar side is Mangxiu. The border line in the village is marked by bamboo fences, ditches, and boundary stones. The most interesting attractions are the “Swing Across Two Countries” — sitting on the swing, a gentle push lets you “fly” from China to Myanmar — and the “Bridge of Two Countries,” a jade stone bridge with railings inlaid with the flags and jade of both countries. Walking on the bridge, your feet touch the land of two nations, a novel and fun experience.
Strolling in the village, you can see Myanmar children carrying backpacks crossing the border to attend school in China, and villagers from both sides visiting each other, trading goods, chatting warmly despite language barriers through gestures. Street stalls sell Myanmar cosmetics and snacks, with bilingual Chinese-Myanmar signs, making you momentarily unsure which country you are in.
Ruili’s Jiegao Port is an important gateway for China-Myanmar trade. The street beside the port is filled with a dazzling array of goods: Myanmar jade, jade carvings, wood sculptures, and Chinese electronics and daily necessities all converge here. Entering the jade market, you see merchants carefully examining raw jade stones with flashlights, bargaining voices rising and falling. Even if you don’t understand jade, watching the raw stones reveal a warm luster under the light lets you feel the vibrancy of border trade.
At dusk, take a walk on Wanting Bridge. This iron bridge spanning the Ruili River was once the terminus of the Burma Road. During World War II, countless aid supplies entered China here, witnessing the hardships of wartime. Today, Wanting Bridge symbolizes China-Myanmar friendship; the bullet marks have long been smoothed by time, and the river breeze seems to carry echoes of history. The town of Wanting beside the bridge preserves the old Burma Road style, with vintage Western-style buildings and weathered walls, hiding the old times of this border town.
Ruili’s cuisine carries a touch of Myanmar flavor. Burmese milk tea is a specialty, brewed with black tea, condensed milk, and butter, rich and mildly milky; Burmese biryani is steamed rice cooked with coconut milk, served with curry chicken, fried pork skin, and pickles, colorful and flavorful. There’s also pounded chicken feet, mixed with lemon, chili, and cilantro, sour and spicy, a popular street snack in Ruili.
Yingjiang: Deep in the Rainforest, Encountering the Wild Charm of Nature
Leaving Ruili, head to Yingjiang. Hidden in the deep mountains of Dehong, Yingjiang is free from tourist disturbance, preserving the most pristine natural scenery, a paradise for flora and fauna.
Tongbiguan Nature Reserve is Yingjiang’s treasure, with vast tropical rainforests, towering ancient trees, entwined vines, and sunlight filtering through leaves creating mottled shadows on the ground. Walking on the rainforest boardwalk, you hear various birds singing and occasionally see squirrels darting through branches. The reserve’s “China Banyan King” has a canopy covering more than ten acres, with aerial roots hanging to the ground, forming a “forest from a single tree” spectacle. Standing beneath it, you can’t help but marvel at nature’s wonders.
The Daying River in Yingjiang is one of western Yunnan’s mother rivers. The water is crystal clear, with rice fields and bamboo groves along the banks. Dai bamboo stilt houses stand by the river, with curling cooking smoke drifting over the water. Riding a bamboo raft downstream, you see water buffalo drinking by the river, Dai girls washing clothes, and fishing boats passing by, startling flocks of egrets — a peaceful and beautiful scene.
Yingjiang’s cuisine carries the freshness of the mountains and fields. Sour bamboo shoot river fish uses fresh fish from the Daying River paired with local sour bamboo shoots, creating a sour, spicy, and fragrant soup with tender, boneless fish; bamboo tube rice is a Jingpo ethnic specialty, with glutinous rice, cured meat, and peanuts steamed in bamboo tubes, releasing a blend of bamboo and rice aroma when opened, soft, fragrant, and sweet. There’s also wild mushroom soup; during the rainy season in Yingjiang, various mushrooms sprout, and chicken soup cooked with mushrooms tastes incredibly fresh — a gift from nature.
Epilogue: Wherever the Wind Stops, There Is Dehong
In Dehong, time seems to slow down. The gentleness of Mangshi, the wonder of Ruili, and the wild charm of Yingjiang piece together the most captivating image of the western Yunnan borderlands. Here are the lush rainforests, colorful ethnic cultures, borderland life, and the sour, spicy, and fresh flavors on the tongue.
On the day I left Dehong, I bought a bag of Paoluda at Mangshi Airport. As the plane took off, watching the green mountains and rice fields fade away outside the window, I thought: Dehong, I will definitely come back. After all, when the wind passes through Dehong, it leaves not only memories but also a deep affection for this land.