Travelogue of Western Yunnan: A Journey Through Time from Kunming to a Border Town
Yunnan, the land of colorful clouds, is not only a place of geographical migration, but also a journey through history and a fusion of ethnic groups.
First Impressions of Kunming: History and Vibrant Life
Arriving in Kunming from Shanghai, the city's atmosphere immediately enveloped me upon exiting the airport. After checking into a hotel in Kunming's Old Street, I began exploring the city. Kunming's Old Street holds the memories of time; traditional buildings are arranged in a charming, staggered pattern along the cobblestone streets. The aroma of rice wafting from the street shops tempted me to try a bowl of thick, flavorful rice noodles—the broth was delicious and instantly relieved the fatigue of my journey.
The next morning, I visited Dounan Flower Market. This is Asia's largest cut flower market, a riot of colors and intoxicating fragrance. Flower farmers busily tended to their various blooms, roses, lilies, and carnations vying for attention. In the afternoon, I walked to the former site of the Southwest Associated University, looking at photos of Lin Huiyin, Wen Yiduo, Feng Youlan, Deng Jiaxian, and other pioneers in their youth, as if transported back to that era of burning ideals.
Next, I visited the Yunnan Military Academy, a historically significant building with yellow walls, where many famous figures, including General Cai E, studied. The academy connects to Cuihu Lake, where red-billed gulls soar and dance. From November to March each year, these gulls from Siberia inhabit the area, creating a beautiful scene in Kunming.
After visiting the Kunming Liberation Museum on Huanggong East Street, I proceeded to the Confucian Temple. Only the gate archway remains original; the rest is newly built. Then came Kunming's famous Wine Cup Building—two symmetrical buildings with beautiful lines, a popular spot for tourists to take photos. A monument to heroes stands between the two buildings, and in the square opposite, residents dressed in Tibetan costumes danced gracefully, led by professional dancers. In the city center square, there were also Peking Opera performances and group square dancing, which people enjoyed or joined in, creating a joyful and peaceful atmosphere.
My Trip to Western Yunnan: From Baoshan to Mangshi
After spending two nights in Kunming, I took a high-speed train to Baoshan. I arrived in Baoshan after more than four hours. To make my trip easier the next day, I checked into a hotel near the bus station. That evening, I took a walk in Qinghuahai National Wetland Park; the prices were reasonable, and the locals were kind and honest.
The next morning, I took a bus to Mangshi. The bus wound its way along mountain roads, and after crossing a large mountain, the scenery suddenly opened up – Mangshi had arrived. It's the capital of Dehong Prefecture, and the rich Dai ethnic culture and subtropical climate instantly transported me to another world.
I stayed near Mangshi Square, making most of my itinerary walkable. I only used a ride-hailing service to visit the Meng Huan Golden Pagoda and the Meng Huan Silver Pagoda.
On the day I arrived in Mangshi, I walked from the Tree-Wrapped Pagoda to the Dai Ancient Town, passing Bodhi Street and Bodhi Temple. That evening, several ethnic dances were performed simultaneously in Mangshi Square. The spectacular dance formations of the Jingpo people and the graceful movements of the Dai people intertwined to create a colorful ethnic tapestry. I even rode the Ferris wheel alone, and the operator even started a ride just for me – a memorable moment in my journey.
On my second day in Mangshi, I made a point of trying the breakfast at Lanlu. This shop only operates in the morning and closes in the afternoon, but it's incredibly popular; many people drive or take taxis specifically to get there. The taste truly lives up to its reputation. Meng Huan Golden Pagoda is China's first golden pagoda and Asia's first hollow pagoda. Legend has it that Shakyamuni Buddha lived here when he was reincarnated as the golden rooster Aluan. Meng Huan Silver Pagoda, on the other hand, is pure white, with its spire hand-carved from Dai silver. The gold and silver pagodas complement each other beautifully, exuding both grandeur and elegance. The Silver Pagoda is a fantastic spot for photos, and you can also watch a beautiful sunset from there.
Many people say that one day in Mangshi is enough, but I'm glad I stayed two nights. After experiencing the Burmese-style hair washing recommended online, which I found unremarkable, I went to the Dehong Prefecture Museum. The museum showcases in detail the clothing and lifestyles of the Lisu, Jingpo, and Dai ethnic minorities, which was much richer and more interesting than I had expected.
Border Charm: Ruili – A Village Between Two Countries
Leaving Mangshi, I traveled by car to Ruili. The weather here was much warmer, a true subtropical climate. Ruili is a unique border town, home to the busiest Ruili Port, through which many Burmese people pass daily.
Ruili's public transportation system is inconvenient, but taxis are cheap. I shared a car with two other tourists (60 yuan each) to visit the Jiegao Port and Ruili Old Town. However, I later realized that traveling independently would have offered more freedom and time management.
The "One Village Between Two Countries" was a highlight of my Ruili trip. This village, located next to Boundary Marker No. 71 on the China-Myanmar border, is divided in two by bamboo fences, village roads, ditches, and earthen embankments. Through the green fence, Burmese women and children sold cigarettes to Chinese tourists. The red-brick castle-like buildings in the village are painted with Buddhist stories, and the jade bridge spanning the two countries is inlaid with 7,777 pieces of jade, creating a unique exotic atmosphere.
Bianzhai Hansha is still inhabited by local residents, and the bamboo houses in the village are quite distinctive. In the evening, I stayed in downtown Ruili, where prices were even lower. Heading to the Ruili River, I saw Myanmar across the water, separated only by a barbed wire fence. At 7:30 pm, the music of Jingpo ethnic dances filled the riverside square, once again bringing a rich tapestry of ethnic culture.
The Border Town: Tengchong's Hot Springs and Ancient Towns
Having heard that Tengchong has many attractions, I specifically planned a five-day, four-night trip. The first day I stayed in Heshun Ancient Town. This ancient town, with over 600 years of history, is dotted with ancient buildings. Xu Xiake called it "the first city on the border," and National Geographic called it "a must-visit ancient town in one's lifetime."
However, Heshun Ancient Town closes at 9 pm, and because of the entrance fee, ride-hailing services can only go to the visitor center. The town's slopes are steep, making walking difficult, so on the second day I moved to the city center and chose a hot spring hotel. Tengchong has abundant hot spring resources; the water is soft and silky, rich in minerals and trace elements. On the third day, I took a ride-hailing service to Simola Wa Village. "Simola" means "a happy place" in the Wa language. The Wa people consider cattle a symbol of good fortune, and countless cattle skulls hang from ancient trees, creating a sacred and solemn atmosphere. Afterwards, I went to the Rehai Scenic Area, where I was immediately enveloped in steaming mist upon entering. The journey involved climbing the mountain, passing several hot spring groups, and finally reaching the "Big Boiling Pot" at the summit, where the water temperature reached a scorching 96 degrees Celsius.
In the afternoon, I went to Qiluo Ancient Town. It was midday, and the market was almost over. After visiting the Caravan Courtyard, I made a special trip back to Qiluo Ancient Town on the fourth morning to browse the morning market and buy some handmade soaps and jewelry. There's a local fruit called "Constipation Fruit," which is said to be very effective for digestive problems.
Tengchong's Dongshan Hot Spring is a natural oxygen bar, primarily featuring forest hot springs. It has 16 indoor pools and 27 outdoor pools, with water temperatures ranging from 42 to 45 degrees Celsius. Soaking in the hot springs after a tiring journey provided immense relaxation for both body and mind.
The city's night markets were incredibly vibrant, and I enjoyed delicious beef rice noodles. Yunnan's culinary delights are truly abundant, making it a place I long to return to.
Travel Reflections
This trip to western Yunnan allowed me to experience the diverse ethnic cultures and natural scenery of the province. From the historical weight of Kunming to the Dai ethnic charm of Mangshi, from the borderland character of Ruili to the hot spring towns of Tengchong, each city possessed its own unique allure.
Yunnan's coolness is not only a gift of climate but also a flavorful blend of mountains, rivers, and culture—the Zen-like tranquility in the wind chimes of the Golden and Silver Pagodas, the solemnity among the pines and cypresses of the National Cemetery, the elegance in the lotus breeze of ancient towns.
If I have the opportunity to visit Yunnan again, I will definitely slow down and experience this magical land more deeply. Because every city, every street, and every person here tells a different story, waiting for travelers to discover and feel it.