Guest User
August 27, 2022
Let me start by saying: I was born, raised and resident in Rome. I have always been used to living with beauty, history, culture but also with chaos, crime and large spaces. Lately I have prided myself, like all other aware Romans, on having the record as the dirtiest, darkest and most frequented by scoundrel capital of the entire old continent... I decide with my family (wife, 11 year old son and Maltese dog of 6 months) to visit Naples by car for 2 days in August 2022. We find a lovely B&B in the Materdei area, two metro stops from Piazza Dante. Materdei is a quiet residential area. The managers of the b&b collect the car from us and take it to the garage. In 48 hours we walk during the day in the historic center, in the Vomero, in the Spanish neighborhoods and in the Toledo-Plebiscito-Bovio area. A marathon... The opinion on the city is that it is not beautiful in an objective sense: certainly the gulf is extraordinary and the sea is remarkable but the construction of the areas visited recalls Madrid and Lisbon of a few decades ago, the large historical and institutional buildings they are black and dirty, downtown construction is necessarily a patchwork of many incredible things. So if your parameter is Paris with rivulets of water cleaning the sidewalks, don't go there. If, however, you want to find kindness, humanity, a profound sense of existence, ancestral fatalism, mystery, coexistence of poverty and nobility, of rich and poor, of uncultured and literate, conviviality, popular music, religiosity, monumentality civil and religious that reflects these values, then Naples is absolutely one of a kind, just as its inhabitants are unique. During the Kingdom of Naples the upper class used Capodimonte ceramics to eat and traveled by train. In the Savoy Kingdom they ate from wooden plates and traveled on horseback. Neapolitan culture is a legal, political, religious and ethical primacy but above all it is the expression of the sense of existence that only here they know how to express in these forms. Obviously, I conclude with some practical clarifications: don't walk at night in non-central areas (we did it by mistake and were scared to death. Better to take a taxi), don't give visibility to bags, watches, etc., don't wander around with the map in the air like diviners, don't be verbally hypercritical when you meet someone. Having said that...have a good stay! PS We will definitely be back as soon as possible!
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