Milia Mountain Retreat

We did not stay at the hotel but we ate at the restaurant. While staying on the coast at Paleochora, we wanted a day trip that would take us away from the daily grind of lying on a beach while roasting in the 35° heat of a Cretan sun. A drive into rhe mountains would tick that box. The first 30km were simple enough, on the snaking roads that take you into the island's interior. The last 6km were a different matter as you wind ever further up hill on a narrow gravelled track. As TV chef Keith Floyd once said whilst driving on a similar track in Spain, there's only one car that'll deal with terrain like this, and that's a hire car. In the 20 minutes it took us, we never left second gear. We parked with relief and walked 5 minutes down another track. Because of the altitude, the temperature has dropped to a pleasant 28° and we arrived at the restaurant hungry and ready for something to eat. We were almost the first to arrive and the welcome couldn't have been friendlier. The 16th century farmhouse has been beautifully renovated and massive wooden ceiling beams give it an almost alpine feel. We chose to sit inside as it was a bit windy, but the terrace looks out on to plunging valleys and soaring craggy. mountainsides. A truly stunning setting. Our meal was superb and included a chilled tomato soup that I can't wait to attempt to recreate at home. It was simple, but the flavours and seasonings were amazing. The local white wine was also very good. Service was warm and friendly throughout and the bill for the really exceptional meal was barely more than we had paid in some of the pleasant but run of the mill town restaurants on the coast. The drive was interesting but so worth the effort! Thoroughly recommended!

If you are a hiker interested in a great place to walk for several days and where you come back to a great dinner in a quiet place, then this is your spot! If you're just looking for a relaxing place to stay, then the drive there may not be worth the effort. The drive there involves some pretty twisty roads with the last 5 km or so on a dirt/gravel road. Once you get there, getting to the reception area and back out again is pretty tricky involving a narrow one lane road. But again, you should be going here if you want good hiking combined worth a quiet place and great food. It's not for the average tourist. The rooms are made of stone and have a nice funky vibe to them. The lock on our door was a rather ancient device and we only got it to work with the help of a can of oil and the hotel manager. The valve in the shower was stuck in one position. One of the USB ports in the room didn't work. But again, if you're looking for a hotel with great USB ports, you shouldn't be coming here. Dinner was great and the restaurant was quiet with striking views of the surrounding mountains. The staff was very friendly and gave us great advice on what else to see while in Crete. Because of the roads, I'm not sure I'd go here again, but I was glad I went.