Smådalarö Gård Hotell & Spa

Smådalarö Gård Hotel & Spa is undeniably beautiful. The lakeside setting is peaceful, the interiors are thoughtfully designed, and the spa facilities offer a tranquil escape from daily life. Most of all, I want to commend the staff, who were consistently friendly, attentive, and warm — truly some of the most hospitable I’ve encountered in Sweden. But unfortunately, my experience was overshadowed by a blatant and deeply offensive racist incident in the hotel lobby. While having a calm conversation with another guest — a Finnish woman I had never met — she looked at me and said, without any provocation: “You belong in hell.” The comment was shocking, cruel, and clearly rooted in prejudice. I won’t pretend I didn’t have the words to respond — in fact, I could have destroyed her with a single comeback. But in that moment, I chose to take the higher road, to stand in quiet dignity rather than descend into the same hostility that was directed at me. What followed, however, was perhaps even more troubling. When I reported the incident to the staff, they responded by saying that they were used to this kind of behavior, and that “this is how people are in Sweden.” As if racism was part of the cultural landscape — something to be tolerated, not confronted. Let me be clear: no amount of Nordic charm or spa treatments can justify a place where people are dehumanized — and then told it’s normal. Hospitality should never come with conditions based on skin tone or background. This place may feel like paradise if you’re blonde and blue-eyed, but for anyone else — it’s a gamble. One that could leave you feeling less like a guest, and more like a target. To the staff: your kindness did not go unnoticed. But to management — silence in the face of bigotry is complicity. This should be a place of refuge for everyone, not just a select few. Until that changes, I cannot recommend Smådalarö Gård Hotel & Spa.

This is a hotel for people who want to decelerate and be with nature. Wonderful views over the water; a superb waterside terrace for breakfast or dinner and the friendliest hotel staff that I have ever met. Stephan, the barkeeper was a wealth of information. Even when he had his day off he gave us his mobile phone number in case we had further questions. Who does that in this day and age? Everybody, without exception, was unfailingly kind and helpful. Lots of plus points for food. Dinner menu is limited -- but excellent quality -- especially the char. Breakfast also good but can close early at 09:30. Hotel rooms are thoughtfully designed with ultra-modern bathrooms and excellent beds. Even though our room was a bit small the hotel is wonderfully sprawling with places to sit so we didn't need more space. Our first evening was chilly and we found a roaring fireplace with armchairs for a pre-dinner cocktail. Over four days at the hotel we constantly discovered new nooks and crannies for sitting or doing work. The spa is huge with several small swimming pools. The pools need to be reserved which is actually a good thing. The biggest one is 12 meters and just long enough for swimming laps. Summary: this is a modern and old-fashioned hotel in the best sense. We realised it all the more when we checked out and went to Stockholm to stay in a global hotel chain that cost three times as much and had one-tenth the charm! Complaints? It would be nice if they turn down or, better yet, turn off the music in the lovely reception area.