If you’re chasing the big-name, five-star, buffet-breakfast, towel-folded-like-a-swan resort experience, keep looking. Besakih Beach Hotel isn’t that. This is old Bali, the kind of place that’s been quietly doing its thing on the Sanur foreshore for decades, long before Instagram made everyone an expert. It’s comfortable, a little worn in around the edges, and all the better for it. Location-wise, it doesn’t get much better. Right on the coast, straight onto the beach path, with morning walks and sunset drinks practically compulsory. The rooms are big, properly big, with enough space that you’re not constantly bumping into your travel companion. We had a ground floor room with a small porch, perfect for slow mornings or a quiet drink after a day in the sun. The decor is classic Bali: timber furniture, tiled floors, and that easy, unpretentious style. The bathroom is large, featuring the traditional Balinese shower-over-bath setup, equal parts practical and perilous. Use the rubber mat provided unless you fancy a quick trip to the local emergency room. The gardens are beautiful, lush and green in that effortless tropical way, and the pool’s a good size, with plenty of loungers. Shade is limited though, so if you want to avoid roasting like a satay stick, get in early. The hotel food? Absolutely fine for poolside snacks or breakfast, but half the joy of Sanur is wandering out and finding a warung or beach bar with cold Bintang and grilled seafood that costs less than your airport coffee. We travelled as a family and booked two adjoining rooms, perfect for keeping an eye on our adult kids while still pretending we were on our own holiday. The air-conditioning in the rooms is excellent (essential), and the Wi-Fi is surprisingly good for a hotel of this vintage But the real standout here is the staff. Genuinely friendly, helpful, and happy to sort out whatever small dramas come with travelling. Nothing was too much trouble, and it never felt forced. Besakih Beach Hotel isn’t perfect, but that’s exactly the point. It’s laidback, unpolished, and exactly the kind of place that lets you slow down, breathe in the sea air, and remember why Bali keeps calling you back.